The City At Sea

 "A boat trip through San Diego harbor provides visitors with tangible proof of America’s military might. San Diego is one of the U.S. Navy’s largest home ports and the headquarters of all naval air forces, including its aircraft carriers. On any given day, one might see everything from nuclear-powered aircraft carriers to hospital ships anchored at the port. Gray-painted helicopters fly overhead, joined by the occasional orange-and-white Coast Guard aircraft. Nearby are the Marine Corps’ Miramar air station and the Marine Corps Recruit Depot San Diego. Camp Pendleton, where thousands of Americans have made the grueling transformation into Marines, is just a few miles north. Standing on the deck of a tour boat in the harbor center, one is literally surrounded by the awesome power of the United States military."

"Nestled in the middle of the harbor is a visible marker of the heritage of the sailors and Marines who made the Navy into the respected and feared force it is today. The USS Midway floating museum stands as a tribute to those who served aboard her and all the other flattops America has sent into battle, as well as those who pioneered carrier aviation, ushering in a new era of naval combat. The largest of only five American aircraft carriers in existence as a museum ship, Midway serves as a both an educational tool and historical monument."

"Midway was built in Newport News, Virginia, at an original cost of $90 million.It was the longest-serving aircraft carrier in the 20th century. Named after the climactic Battle of Midway of June 1942, Midway was built in only 17 months but missed World War II by one week when commissioned on Sept. 10, 1945, just days after World War II ended. 

 Midway was the first in a three-ship class of large carriers that featured an armored flight deck and a powerful air group of 120 planes."

 "From the beginning of its service, the Midway played key roles in the Cold War. In 1946, it became the first American carrier to operate in the midwinter sub-Arctic, developing new flight deck procedures. The following year, Midway became the only ship to launch a captured German V-2 rocket. The trial’s success became the dawn of naval missile warfare. Just two years after that, Midway sent a large patrol plane aloft to demonstrate that a carrier could deliver atomic bombs."

 "Midway’s first combat deployment came in 1965 when it flew strikes against North Vietnam. Midway aircraft shot down three MiGs, including the first air kill of the war. However, 17 Midway aircraft were lost to enemy fire during this cruise. In 1966, Midway was decommissioned for a four-year overhaul.

 After a return to the United States for a controversial modernization project, Midway went back to Vietnam in 1971 to conduct further combat missions. On January 12, 1973, two of her flyers shot down a MiG17 with a Sidewinder missile."

"Over a chaotic two-day period during the fall of Saigon in April 1975 Midway was a floating base for large Air Force helicopters that evacuated more than 3,000 desperate refugees during Operation Frequent Wind.

As potential threats to the Arabian oil supply grew, and to relieve strain on U.S.-based carriers, Midway transferred to Yokosuka, Japan, making it the first American carrier homeported in a foreign country."

"In 1990, Midway deployed to the Persian Gulf in response to the Iraqi seizure of Kuwait. In the ensuing Operation Desert Storm, Midway served as the flagship for naval air forces in the Gulf and launched more than 3,000 combat missions with no losses. Its final mission was the evacuation of civilian personnel from Clark Air Force Base in the Philippines after the 20th century’s largest volcano eruption of nearby Mount Pinatubo.

On April 11, 1992, the Midway was decommissioned in San Diego and remained in the inactive ship fleet in Bremerton, Washington, until 2003, when it was donated to the 501(c)3 nonprofit San Diego Aircraft Carrier Museum organization. It opened as the USS Midway Museum in June 2004."

The museum has gone to great lengths to portray the everyday lives of sailors aboard ship. Midway’s crew numbered 4,500 in all, with each man having to perform his particular job to keep the carrier operating. 

 The ship’s various living spaces highlight the relatively Spartan conditions aboard a Cold War naval vessel and the differing levels of comfort afforded the crew based on rank. Sailor’s berths are simple bunks with a locker underneath to hold personal possessions, while the captain’s suite spans several rooms. Of particular note is the noncommissioned officers’ mess. One of the few amenities afforded petty officers was a nicer place to eat and relax.

 While the living spaces exhibit the conditions and social order of the crew, the various working spaces show just how complex a modern warship is. Literally thousands of sailors had to work at hundreds of different tasks to keep Midway functioning at peak efficiency. Touring the engine room, electrical control spaces, machine shops, sick bay, mess, and laundry facilities highlights just how many separate tasks a warship required.

The carrier’s island offers looks at the bridge, admiral’s quarters, and radio room.

"The flight deck holds Midway’s pride and joy, her air group. Spanning the Korean War through Desert Storm and beyond, the aircraft on display represent American naval aviation’s contribution to the Cold War era. Early jets like the F9F Panther sit near state-of-the-art planes like the F/A18 Hornet, still in use today. Most of Midway’s combat service came during the Vietnam War, so aircraft of that era are well represented. Fighters like the F4 Phantom and F8 Crusader line up next to vintage attack aircraft such as the A6 Intruder and A1 Skyraider. Supporting planes are also present, including the E2 Hawkeye and various helicopters."

Midway is by far the largest thing to see in San Diego harbor, and worth spending the effort to visit.

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